In Rome for Christmas? Find all you need to know to enjoy the Eternal City during the holiday season with this practical guide to Rome at Christmas -updated 2023.
Rome is always stunning, but Rome at Christmas is magical.
When the festive season dusts its ancient walls with lights and cheer, the often prickly personality of this multifaceted city softens and acquires an air of joyful elegance that lifts the spirits of inhabitants and tourists alike.
Growing up in Rome I witnessed often the transition from a dull winter day to the light-filled days of Christmas.
The first big day for Christmas festivities in Rome is the 8th of December, when trees are traditionally decorated, and celebrations carry through all the way to the 6th of December, when the epiphany ‘takes away’ the holiday (L’Epifania, tutte le feste porta via).
These full tree weeks of holidays are filled with seasonal events in Rome and I can think of many unique things to do in Rome at Christmas that I am personally looking forward to the experience and that I am sure will put the city on your wish list for Christmas plans next year.
Visiting Rome soon? Check also our FAVOURITE ROME ITINERARY, OUR GUIDE TO THE BEST THINGS TO SEE IN ROME FOR FREE AND OUR SELECTION OF ROME HOTELS
Table of Contents
10 awesome things to do in Rome at Christmas
Look up at the Christmas tree Rome’s main squares
Many of Rome’s main piazzas get tall Christmas trees during the holiday season and they are a cool sight for kids and adults alike.
Among the most impressive, there are the tall tree in Piazza Venezia and the one in St Peter’s square.
The most impressive of all is the one in St Peter’s square.
I can think of many reasons why you should visit St Peter’s square and basilica at Christmas, but the one I cherish most of all and is always a great hit with the kids is the big tree that graces the centre of this peculiar yet important State.
The tree reaches the square each year from a different destination but it is always immensely tall (in 2017 it was 28 metres!), sustainably grown and meaningful: its wood, once the festivities are over, is donated to charity.
The tree arrives in the Piazza at the end of November and gets lit around the 8th of December (the exact date changes every year).
Top tip for families visiting with young children: the tree is always a great sight but especially if you have a toddler or anyway a young boy the real fun moment is when the tree arrives. Because of its size, the tree is usually carried by big cranes and machines, effortlessly maneuvering it around as it if was a piece of lego! It is not the most cultural of events in Rome, but I can guarantee it will be one little kids will remember fondly.
Marvel at the elaborate nativity scenes
Italy has a strong tradition of nativity scenes and if you are curious about this special craft and its significance, the ‘100 nativity scenes’ exhibition the place for you.
Like the name suggests, the exhibition has over 100 variations on the theme of the Bethlehem crib and it is interesting because it hosts creations not jut from several Italian regions but also from foreign countries – Belgium, el Salvador, China, Korea, Panama, Indonesia and Peru, just to name a few!
The exhibition takes place in Piazza San Pietro and is free, you can just walk in (it’s under the colonnade, you cannot miss it once you’re in the square, you’ll see it)
Where are the best nativity scenes in Rome at Christmas?
Another great way to see nativity scenes is to spot them in public spaces around town.
The best known are at the Campidoglio (to the left of the main stairway), Piazza Navona and in churches such as Santa Maria Maggiore or the wonderful Sant’Eustachio.
Celebrate Christmas mass at the Vatican
On Christmas, the eyes of the catholic world turn to St Peter’s square and if you are spending Christmas in Rome, you may want to participate to this event and see the Pope in person.
This is possible however, it does take some planning and a good bit of luck as tickets for the mass in the Vatican are limited and hard to get.
However, should you not be one of the chosen few who can participate to the even from inside the church, there is an alternative.
On Christmas even, you can head to St Peter’s square and join the many visitors who follow the mass from the big screens in the square or, on Christmas day, you can participate to the mass held in the square at noon.
This one does not require tickets (but does get super busy).
You can find here >>> all you need to know about visiting the Vatican at Christmas.
Go ice skating at the auditorium
Rome doesn’t see snow at Christmas but ice skate rings do pop up during the festivities.
One I love is the small but beautiful ring in the Auditorium, open until late in the evening.
The auditorium is an impressive building with a good programme of musical events.
It is not in the centre of town and as such is unlikely to be on your itinerary especially if you are on a tight schedule, but if you love music it is worth the detour and the ice skating can be fun for kids.
If you go, make sure you also stop and the bar for a stylish aperitivo: kids can come too and will find a selection of juices, crisps and nibbles.
Celebrate Christmas eve eating fish
Christmas eve is a big festivity in Rome and much more than just a warm-up for the big day.
Families gather on Christmas eve and celebrate the occasion with glorious meals with, usually, a fish menu.
This tradition has roots in the Christian habit of fasting or at least to eat light on the day preceding a big religious event, but over the course of the centuries it has changed and has become a gourmand extravaganza.
Salmon, oily fish and shrimps are the most popular starters and shellfish pasta and roast fillets of fish are traditional mains.
If you are renting an apartment in Rome for the festivities, which I highly recommend, you can join this tradition.
Just be aware that shops do close early on Christmas eve so any stock must be bought in the morning at the very latest.
Join the debate: do you prefer panettone or pandoro?
Italy has many Christmas dessert and the two most famous are panettone and pandoro.
To the non-initiated, they may look similar, but Italians have very strong opinions about them and are divided into what I can only call two factions: panettone vs pandoro lovers.
Both desserts are not homemade but rather bought (in supermarkets or in their craft version in some deli shops and bakeries) and their appearance is somehow reminiscent of the one of a brioche, soft and sweet to the bite.
Italians are evangelical about preferring one of the other and while they will not hold it against you if you don’t agree with their choice, they are likely to take note of which side of the debate you are on.
So, taste aways and pick a favourite!
Load up on sweets at Rome Christmas markets
Christmas markets are not part of the Italian Christmas traditions but in the last few years they have become quite popular.
You can find some in the city and they are great places to pick up sweets, local specialities and knick-knacks.
The most famous Christmas market in Rome happens in Piazza Navona and usually runs until the 6th of January.
Buy sweet coal
Italy celebrates the epiphany (6th of January) with a very special character, la befana.
Abroad it is often referred to as Italy’s Christmas which and she is an old witch-like lady who on the night of the 5/6th of January flies around Italy on a broomstick to deliver sweet to the good kids and coal (sugar in the shape of coal, nowadays) to the naughty ones.
If you want to introduce your kids to this tradition, there is no place like to Rome to get your fix of sugar coal!
Go sightseeing
Many attractions stay open during the Christmas period, catering for the many tourists that come to Rome at this time of the year.
Cold and wet days make museums the best places to visit at this time but this doesn’t mean attractions such as the Colosseum of the Roman Forum see shorter crowds.
When sightseeing in Rome at Christmas, wrap up warm and make sure you get hold of skip the line tickets!
See the lights
In the last few years, Rome has embraces the tradition of lights and decoration to an incredible extent.
While the displays are not as impressive as the ones in, let’s say, New York (but really, who can compete with that?) the city really puts on a show.
The best areas to enjoy the Christmas lights in Rome are the streets between Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Venezia (via del Corso), Trastevere and Piazza Navona.
How cold does it get in Rome in December?
December is one of the coldest months in Rome and while temperatures stay well above freezing, especially on a wet day it is wise to wrap up.
The average temperature is around 10 degrees and showers of rain are possible while, usually, short lived.
What to pack for visiting Rome at Christmas
If visiting Rome in December you will need good, warm, walking shoes, a coat (ideally waterproof) a scarf and an umbrella.
Heating is not as full on in Italy as you may be used to in other countries, so don’t expect to have to take off many layers once entering museums or restaurants.
You will find yourself keeping warm sweaters on at all times!
YOU CAN FIND MY FULL PACKING LIST FOR ROME IN WINTER HERE
Where to stay in Rome at Christmas
Christmas festivities make the already chaotic Rome public transport system unreliable, with fewer services available.
If you can, stay in the city centre, in the area around Piazza Navona or the Pantheon. The extra cost for such a location will be offset by the ease of movement.
A good alternative are the roads between the Colosseum and Rione Monti or Trastevere, which is separated from the centre by the river Tiber, but is atmospheric and very well served with local shops and restaurants.
Find here >>> my recommended hotels in the Pantheon/ Navona area
Closing hours of main Rome attraction at Christmas
Most tours and attractions will be open over Christmas and will follow standard opening hours and schedule.
However, there are some notable exceptions on Christmas eve, Christmas day, St Stephen’s day (the 26th of December), New year’s day and January the 6th.
Sites that close during Christmas in Rome
The colosseum, the forum and the Borghese gallery are closed on Christmas day and new years day
The Vatican museums are closed on all the above mentioned days, but the main square stays open, and so does the basilica
Are shops open in Rome during Christmas week?
Shops have prolonged opening hours during the Christmas weeks but do close early on the 24th of December and tend to reopen on the 27th.
While you will always find some form of food in Rome, it is best to check your local supermarket opening hours so you know don’t get stuck.
If you are really stuck for supplies, your best bet is to head to Termini station where shops are usually open even after hours and during festivities
Important note for shopping lovers: in Rome, sales do not start immediately after Christmas, you have to wait January for bargains!
Are Rome restaurants open at Christmas?
Eating out in Rome on Christmas eve and Christmas day is not always easy: many restaurants close on the 24th and the ones that are open tend to have special Christmas menu with equally ‘special’ price tags.
The same happens for new year’s eve when restaurants tend to be booked for events or offer special festive menus.
Book in advance to make sure you are happy with the deal you are offered or to do as the Romans do: stock up on food at home and join the celebrations after dinner!
I hope you enjoyed reading about Rome at Christmas. Safe travels!
These are great suggestions for anybody who plans to be in Rome around Christmas time! We wish we could have experienced that time when we stayed in Rome for several months a few years ago!
great escape, Marta ! I can’t wait to make the most of your sugestions in a few days, while in Rome with my family for a few , hopefully sunny, days. By the way, wasn’t it in one of your posts that ice cream shops in Rome are open even in the coldest weather? I strongly hope so …..and not only for my grandchildren!
Oh my gosh. To see Rome all dressed up for the holidays would be a dream!
I’ve been to Rome at Easter and it was wonderful. I can’t imagine how much more magical it would be at Christmas time! I would eat Panettone every single day.
What a lovely and helpful list of activities! We’re headed to Rome for a month-long stay over the holidays and this post will be a handy reference! Thanks.
Thank you for taking the time to write a comprehensive summary. I love to travel and was in London last Christmas and will be in Rome this year, and you hit on all the key topics. Excellent!
Especially important is to consider what you can walk to on Christmas Day (and for the Christmas Eve evening meal) as transport/cabs—are usually limited if available at all. Re: food Beware meals available in tourist areas for price fix—can be very expensive–esp if you are traveling with kids. Another alternative, I’ve seen a number of posts suggesting that Rome’s Jewish quarter can be an option on these dates.
Great article!